Category: Step X Step

Build an inexpensive solid oak bathroom medicine cabinet

The original medicine cabinet was one piece metal mold cabinet with two shelves in a white enameled finish. The mirrored cabinet door is attached to the medicine cabinet by a decorative wooden pine frame. The medicine cabinet Real-life Makeover project is to replace at minimal cost the original medicine cabinet with a more contemporary cabinet with 2 shelves.

If you prefer you may add more shelves just remember to allow enough height in at least one shelve area to accommodate the tallest item to be stored in the medicine cabinet.

original-medicine-cabinet-real-life-makeover — Original Medicine Cabinet

The major materials for the medicine cabinet will be recycled pine for the trim and to match the bathroom counter-top, Oak for the sides and shelves one piece of scrap bin for the back and one Ikea, Vattern Femmen 600.482.21 mirror door.

Determine the height and width for the medicine cabinet, most often this is set by the wall cutout from the original cabinet, and wearing protective glasses and gloves secure the oak and cut the pieces accordingly. For the Medicine Cabinet Real-life Makeover project we cut the oak into 2 x 25 9/16″ for the sides and 4 x 14″ for the top, bottom and 2 shelves.

Measure the depth and height for the pine trim and cut accordingly the 2 pieces.

Using a combination square, measure and drill the shelve support holes (pilot holes), into the cabinet side oak pieces. (Purchase the shelve supports before drilling the pilot holes to determine which size of drill bit to use.)

Then two inset holes will need to be drilled onto each of the oak side pieces which will support the the pine trim, the holes should be drilled where they will be covered by the shelves. Followed by 2 pilot holes at each corner to hold the medicine cabinet together.

Once all the pilot holes are made each side oak side piece for a two shelve medicine cabinet should have 2 x 2 for the shelves, 2 x inset to support the pine trim and 2 pilot holes at each corner to attach to the top and bottom oak pieces. The top and bottom oak pieces should each have 2 pilot holes on each end to attach to the medicine cabinet side pieces.

Wearing protective glasses and gloves secure the oak shelve piece and with a small chisel cut out on each end of the shelve a groove for the supports to slide into. An L shaped support or non slip rubber supports can also be instead be used to avoid the need for grooves.

Then stain or paint and protect the cut wood with a least 2 coats of polyurethane. if more protection is desired a third coat of polyurethane maybe applied but before the third coat the wood needs to be lightly sanded with 220 sandpaper to help ensure a smoother finish. If only 2 coats of polyurethane are applied there is no need to sand in between coats and you may stain before or after preparing the wooden pieces.

The top image shows one side panel with the shelve supports and two pilot holes. One pilot hole will be used to secure the unit in place and the second will be to secure the trim pictured below.

The two pieces of trim (bottom image) were left over from an old table top. They will be stained the similar shade as the cabinet and secured using the pilot holes onto each side of the medicine cabinet.

Now we will drill the pilot holes for the screws that will hold the frame together.

Using a bit size that correspond to the shelve supports, drill 2 pilot holes at each end on the back side of the 25 9/16″ pieces. Two at each top and bottom. (top image).

Then drill 2 pilot holes on the end face of two 14″ pieces (The top and bottom of the cabinet.).Make sure they match the pilot holes on the side pieces above. These
Then assemble the frame, using the 8 x 1 3/4 ” screws. (bottom image).

Top Pic:
Front image of the Ikea mirror door (Vattern Femmen) that we will be using for the cabinet.

Bottom Pic:
Image of the back side of the same mirror door. The hinge holes on the door come predrilled

Now place the back panel, on the rear of the oak frame and drill the pilot holes.
This board for the back of the cabinet was purchased from a scrap bin. Hardware stores offering a wood cutting service often keep a bin with left over pieces from previous cuts. The above piece was found in such a bin and cost us $2.50 including the cut to measure!

After completing the rear panel pilot holes, put the rear panel aside for the moment and prepare to install the front mirror door.
Start by installing the hardware into the back of the mirror door, then palace the fame onto the rear of the mirror and mark the pilot holes for the screws that will support the mirror onto the frame. Remove the frame from the mirror and drill the pilot holes at the marks, replace the frame on top of the backside of the mirror, top image, and screw the mirror supports onto the oak frame.
(Replace the original screws with 12 x 3/4″ metal/wood crews, image bottom right.)

These images show the backside of the mirror door attached to the oak frame. The pilot holes for the rear panel are visible along the back edge of the frame.

Four holes on the side pieces and three and the top and bottom.
(Remember if using 1″ thick oak the pilot holes should accommodate
8 x 1 3/4″ wood screws.)

A drill was used to produce notches to the underside end of each shelve. This will give the shelve supports a flush fit with the selves.
A Q-tip was used to stain the shelves notches.

Exterior and interior of the finished medicine cabinet. The two strips of pine attached to each side add warmth while maintaining a contemporary look.

	Bathroom Medicine Cabinet Real-life Makeover™.
	What You Need
01	1 1″ x 5″ x 8’six solid oak piece.	Home Depot	$23.28
02	1 mirrored door (Vattern Femmen 600.482.21)	Ikea	$20.00
03	1 pack hinges for mirrored door ( Anordna, 0614)	Ikea	$2.00
04	1 pack 8 x 1 3/4″ wood screws ( 846-054 )	Home Depot	$1.99
05	1 pack 12 x 3/4″ metal/wood screws (826-252)	Home Depot	$1.99
06	1 Miniwax stain and protect, 236 ml (Antique Walnut, Satin 340)	Home Depot	$7.15
07	1 back panel (from scrap bin)	Home Depot	$3.00
08	8 shelve supports		$1.00
09	2 Peices the height of the mirror for the trim.		$0.00
		Total	$60.41

	The Tools You Need:
	Terry Sponge for staining (or brush)
	Combination Square
	Screwdriver
	Drill and Bits
	Saw

September 21, 2013

Remodel interior doors by recycling old moldings

After replaced the original door frame moldings in our home, we decided that the doors also required a makeover. Since we rent the apartment we were searching for a low budget solution. Paint alone on the plain flat doors with out texture would not be sufficient. We then decided to recycle the former old moldings and used them to add texture and depth to the doors. This is an easy real-life makeover project which helps not only the bank account but also the environment by recycling the old moldings and doors.

Old recycled moldings were cleaned, trimmed to 45 degree angles and sanded then positioned and secured to the door with finishing nails hammer in just deep enough to support the pieces. This is important to allow for easy removal of the molding if readjustment is necessary. To avoid uncovering extra holes from the previous ‘countersinking’ holes which had been filled in pull the nails through the back side of the molding. This is also an easier method to remove the old nails.

Once you are satisfied with the placement of the moldings, remove them add glue and nail then back onto the door. Different patterns can be created with the limitation being only your imagination. We picked a square pattern repeated 3 times on both sides of each door.

After the patterns are and properly secured, lightly sand the door and moldings using a finishing sandpaper. Then apply two coats of a good quality primer, followed by the paint. The door in our interior door real life makeover
was finished with two coats of semi-gloss paint.

Note: To demonstrate how quick and easy the interior door real life makeover project is, we left the project door on its hinges, it can however be removed.

Images below show the various stages of the Interior Door Real Life Makeover project

The original door

Start of first pattern

Starting second pattern

All 3 patterns completed

Sanded and primed door

Finished door

May 21, 2013
Inexpensive Bathroom Real-Life Makeover

The first four pictures(1,2,3,4), show the original bathroom, which will receive a real-life makeover™. Not being the proprietors of the appartment the makeover will have to achive a balance between quality and frugality. To minimize costs the original walls and tiles, which are in good condition will be saved and, tiled over, instead of torn down.

After removing the medicine cabinet, counter-top, heater, moldings and doors, we decided to replace the original razor outlet with an electrirical outlet with a saftey breaker and move it inside the cabinet, (Picture,5). Using a drywall saw Picture,6), the original medicine cabinet
cut out was enlarged to accomidate the new larger cabinet. Highly recomended that if you decide to build your own medicine cabinet, or purchase a new one, make sure at least one shelve has enough clearence to allow for a tooth brush in its stand.

Click here for the medicine cabinet real life makeover™. The original tile was then lightly sanded and throughly cleaned with a heavy duty cleaner. Then the vanity was cleaned, primed/painted, a middle shelve added, and both shelves covered with covering from Ikea, (Picture,7). The music speaker wires were also run around the door frame, behind the tile and under/around the counter, (Picture,7,8), so later speakers maybe added to the bathroom.

The tiling was completed using adhisive starting from the bottom up. Make sure the first row of tile is straight, errors will get magmified as the works progresses.(There could be exceptions when the first row of tile may not be perfectly straight, this is fine, if done intenssionaly.) Make sure the proper adhisive for tile on tile, not tile on wall /floor is used.

The counter top came from an old Ikea table top that was trimmed to measure using a circular
saw,(Picture,9). A jigsaw and drill were used for the sink cutout, which we then turned into a cutting board. Once the top was properly trimmed, the underside received two coats of stain/ protection. The topside also received two coats of stain/protection, followed by a light sanding (220 sandpaper), before appling a third coat,(Picture,9). We highly recomended to lightly sand after the second and before any thrid coat of stain or paint. The top was then secured to the vanity, (Picture,10) and the tileover completed.

Once the tiles are firmly set. Using a grout filler begin filling in the spaces between the tiles. When mixing the filler add water a small amout at a time until the filler achives the
consistiensy of wet dough. Apply the filler a small area at a time and wipe off the excess filler imidiately, before moving on to the next area. Once the tilling is all completed wash all residu off. Then the walls were painted using a kitchen/bathroom paint, and the newly built medicine
cabinet securly screewed into the cut out on the wall.

This being the only bathroom in th apartment, the hardware was placed as soon as possible.
The towel rack, toilet paper holder, ethermastat, light switches, sink and facet were updatd
and greatly added to the final look. Their total cost for the hardware was just over $110.
The quality of the fixtures greatly determin the finished look of any makeover, therefore
always purchase wisely but try to purchase the best quality you can afford. For an example of the importance of hardware, see how changing an inexpensive handle on a toilet, completely upgrades the look, click here.

April 11, 2013
Step X Step Instruction on How to Install a Fly Screen / Windscreen on a Scooter

Sliding the fly screen/windscreen onto the screen supports for a Vespa GTS 250

Installing a windscreen will make scooter or motorbike riding a lot more enjoyable when riding on highways, at higher speeds and in cold weather.

An adequately installed windscreen/fly screen will also help improve fuel economy, making this a relatively inexpensive DIY with numerous benefits.

For highway or cold weather riding, a fly screen / windscreen is indispensable, affordable and easy to install. In this installation iVespa™ uses a Cuppini flyscreen, but the installation procedure is similar for the other brands of screens.

For the installation instructions visit iVespa.com

February 19, 2013
Quick and Inexpensive Small Bedroom Closet Makeover
Three images of the original closet

The flat’s decent-sized master bedroom featured a small, disproportionately sized closet, oddly also home to the apartment’s hot water tank.

Three guidelines guided the small bedroom closet’s real-life makeover.
1. The unit is a rental; therefore, keep expenses to a minimum.
2. For the reason above, cannot displace the hot water tank.
3. The residence’s two large hallway closets will store coats and winter boots.
The original layout had a single rod across the front, with the rear area and a shelf above the rod used for general storage.

We decided to maximize the left wall area and the space around the water tank. The left wall was divided into three parts, two rods and a sliding-out pants rack from Ikea.

Mail room pigeon hold shelf used in the project

We used a salvaged mail room pigeonhole shelf for the area around the water tank, which received two coats of white paint.

The closet was emptied, cleaned, primed, and underwent two coats of satin gloss paint. Once the freshly painted walls dried, we installed the shelf, cut it into smaller sections to fit around the water heater.

Ikea pant rack, 2 clothes racks and shelves installed.

With the shelf securely in place, we then attached the two rods plus the pants rack onto the opposite wall. Unfortunately, the closet’s width did not allow for the slide-out hanger to slide forward, so the right-side support rail was removed using a metal cutting saw.

The hanger was secured directly onto the drywall studs using two large screws (Yellow arrow). It is important to securely attach rods and racks to a wall stud or use appropriate size wall anchors.

Studs run along a wall from floor to ceiling 16 or 24 inches apart, measured from center to center. A stud finder would help to locate studs.

Below are the before and after makeover images.

Completed small bedroom closet real-life makeover™
March 19, 2008