Category: Bathroom

The original  medicine cabinet was one piece metal mold cabinet with two shelves in a white enameled finish. The mirrored cabinet door is attached to the medicine cabinet by a decorative wooden pine frame.  The medicine cabinet Real-life Makeover project is to replace at minimal cost the original medicine cabinet with a more contemporary cabinet with 2 shelves.

If you prefer you may add more shelves just remember to allow enough height in at least one shelve area to accommodate the tallest item to be stored in the medicine cabinet.

The major materials for the medicine cabinet will be recycled pine for the trim and to match the bathroom counter-top, Oak for the sides and shelves one piece of scrap bin for the back and one Ikea, Vattern Femmen 600.482.21 mirror door.

Determine the height and width for the medicine cabinet, most often this is set by the wall cutout from the original cabinet, and wearing protective glasses and gloves secure the oak and cut the pieces accordingly. For the Medicine Cabinet Real-life Makeover project we cut the oak into  2 x 25 9/16″ for the sides and 4 x 14″ for the top, bottom and 2 shelves.

Measure the depth and height for the pine trim and cut accordingly the 2 pieces.

Using a combination square, measure and drill the shelve support holes (pilot holes), into the cabinet side oak pieces.   (Purchase the shelve supports before drilling the pilot holes to determine which size of drill bit to use.)

Then two inset holes will need to be drilled onto each of the oak side pieces which will  support the the pine trim, the holes should be drilled where they will be covered by the shelves. Followed by 2 pilot holes at each corner to hold the medicine cabinet together.

Once all the pilot holes are made each side oak side piece for a two shelve medicine cabinet should have 2 x 2 for the shelves, 2 x inset to support the pine trim and 2 pilot holes at each corner to attach  to the top and bottom oak pieces.  The top and bottom oak pieces should each have 2 pilot holes on each end to attach to the medicine cabinet side pieces.

Wearing protective glasses and gloves secure the oak shelve piece and with a small chisel cut out on each end of the shelve a groove for the supports to slide into.  An L shaped support  or non slip rubber supports can also be instead be used to avoid the need for grooves.

Then stain or paint and protect the cut wood with a least 2 coats of polyurethane. if more protection is desired a third coat of polyurethane maybe applied but before the third coat the wood needs to be lightly sanded with 220 sandpaper to help ensure a smoother finish.  If only 2 coats of polyurethane are applied  there is no need to sand in between coats and you may stain before or after preparing the wooden pieces.

The top image shows one side panel with the shelve supports and two pilot holes. One pilot hole will be used to secure the unit in place and the second will be to secure the trim pictured below.

The two pieces of trim (bottom image) were left over from an old table top. They will be stained the similar shade as the cabinet and secured using the pilot holes onto each side of the medicine cabinet.

Now we will drill the pilot holes for the screws that will hold the frame together.

Using a bit size that correspond to the shelve supports, drill 2 pilot holes at each end on the back side of the 25 9/16″ pieces. Two at each top and bottom. (top image).

Then drill 2 pilot holes on the end face of two 14″ pieces (The top and bottom of the cabinet.).Make sure they match the pilot holes on the side pieces above. These
Then assemble the frame, using the 8 x 1 3/4 ” screws. (bottom image).

Top Pic:
Front image of the Ikea mirror door (Vattern Femmen) that we will be using for the cabinet.

Bottom Pic:
Image of the back side of the same mirror door. The hinge holes on the door come predrilled

Now place the back panel, on the rear of the oak frame and drill the pilot holes.
This board for the back of the cabinet was purchased from a scrap bin. Hardware stores offering a wood cutting service often keep a bin with left over pieces from previous cuts. The above piece was found in such a bin and cost us $2.50 including the cut to measure!

After completing the rear panel pilot holes, put the rear panel aside for the moment and prepare to install the front mirror door.
Start by installing the hardware into the back of the mirror door, then palace the fame onto the rear of the mirror and mark the pilot holes for the screws that will support the mirror onto the frame. Remove the frame from the mirror and drill the pilot holes at the marks, replace the frame on top of the backside of the mirror, top image, and screw the mirror supports onto the oak frame.
(Replace the original screws with 12 x 3/4″ metal/wood crews, image bottom right.)

These images show the backside of the mirror door attached to the oak frame. The pilot holes for the rear panel are visible along the back edge of the frame.

Four holes on the side pieces and three and the top and bottom.
(Remember if using 1″ thick oak the pilot holes should accommodate
8 x 1 3/4″ wood screws.)

A drill was used to produce notches to the underside end of each shelve. This will give the shelve supports a flush fit with the selves.
A Q-tip was used to stain the shelves notches.

Exterior and interior of the finished medicine cabinet. The two strips of pine attached to each side add warmth while maintaining a contemporary look.